Looking back at the new products released by Rolex in 2023, I would like to summarize them with two keywords: “breaking through tradition” and “embracing the trend.” The so-called breakthrough of tradition means breaking the original constraints. For example, Daytona and Perpetual 1908, which used see-through bottom covers for the first time, are equipped with the innovative 24-hour chronograph movement Cal.4132 and the slim movement Cal.7140. On the other hand, the new Oyster Perpetual “celebration face” is presented with colorful bubbles. In contrast, the day-date “puzzle face” embraces the trend and shows young consumers through a layered puzzle dial and expression calendar window. Good.
As the only new series this year, the Perpetual 1908 model has undoubtedly attracted much attention. The formal style, precious metal case, fluted outer ring, and leather strap superimposed on these elements are reminiscent of the discontinued Cellini series. The Perpetual 1908 is not just a “Cellini shell change”; it has been innovated in many aspects.
The Perpetual 1908 uses a 39 mm precious metal (18K gold or platinum) case and a small three-hand layout. The “Breguet needle” is also called the hollowed-out “Mercedes needle” by some players. In any case, this debut pointer shape is a break from tradition.
At the same time, the Perpetual 1908 model also uses a new movement: Cal.7140, which can be seen through the back cover. Compared with the 32 series movement that players are familiar with, the thickness of the 7140 movement is reduced by about 1/3. It can be easily assembled into the Perpetual 1908 case with a thickness of only 9 mm. This also means that even if various complex functional modules are superimposed, the thickness of the movement can still be controlled within a considerable range. This is an advantage the Rolex 32 series movements did not have in the past. Cheap Rolex replica.
What can also be called a “breakthrough” is the new Cosmograph Daytona, which includes the fact that it is Rolex’s first chronograph with a back cover and is equipped with the debut Cal. 4131 movement. The new Daytona case is cast in 950 platinum. While continuing the 40mm Oyster case, the crown and shoulder guards have been optimized and adjusted. The ceramic bezel edged with 950 platinum is more exquisite and enhances the luxurious texture.
In the past, Rolex chronographs mostly had solid bottom covers, and the see-through back is a significant breakthrough for the 2023 new Daytona. Many details of the Cal.4131 chronograph movement can be observed through the back view. The structure of the movement has been significantly improved, and components have been streamlined to make it more reliable. Cal.4131 movement adopts a column wheel and vertical clutch device with a patented Chronergy escapement system. This escapement is made of nickel-phosphorus alloy and is not subject to substantial magnetic interference. Inefficient cooperation with the escapement system, the improved ball bearings can provide a dynamic reserve of up to 72 hours.
In June this year, Rolex launched another Daytona watch (model: 126529 LN). This work continues the back-through feature and is equipped with the 4132 movement that was also unveiled. This movement is a modification of the 4131 model. Many parameters are consistent with the 4131 model. The only difference is that the timing function is displayed in a 24-hour mechanism (echoing the 24-hour endurance race theme). This technical feature is the first among many Rolex watches and a significant breakthrough. Best replica watches.
After discussing “breakthrough,” let’s focus on another keyword: “trend.” Titanium metal has become increasingly popular in sports watches in recent years due to its advantages, such as lightness and corrosion resistance, and it is one of the popular materials nowadays. Although Rolex used RLX titanium bottom cover in the “Ghost King” deep dive model many years ago, the primary material of the case is still Oystersteel. If you want to talk about a watch with a shell made entirely of RLX titanium, it must be the Deep Sea Challenge model released in 2022. However, this work’s slightly exaggerated size and thickness dramatically limit the wearing scenarios, and it is more like a “muscle show” job for the brand to show off its waterproof technology. The Yacht-Master m226627 released this year, with its moderate size and thickness, has become Rolex’s most suitable titanium watch for daily wear.
There have been rumors that Rolex will launch a “titanium yacht” shortly. As early as 2021, foreign media reported that British sailing athlete Ben Ainslie wore a customized Yacht-Master watch. But the brand remained silent until this year when the work was officially launched.
The new Yacht-Master model changes the luxurious style of the previous series, which mainly used precious metals. Titanium metal with low-key color and more practicality enriches players’ choices. In the past, the outer ring of Yacht-Master watches especially was made of precious metals. The new Yacht-Master watch has a Cerachrom ceramic bezel made of special chemicals. It is a work that combines beauty and practicality.
Rolex watches are divided into two categories: professional and classic. The so-called professional model is what players commonly call a “sports watch,” while the traditional model corresponds to the formal style. In the past, Rolex’s traditional models gave people a “mature and stable” feeling. This year, the brand hopes to change players’ stereotypes about the series with two new products and show favor to most young consumers.
The Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” uses the previously popular “turquoise” color as the primary color. There are five different colors of bubbles on the dial, which are from the candy pink used in the 2020 Oyster Perpetual. Turquoise blue, yellow, coral and green. From the earliest single color to today’s colorful bubbles, the Oyster Perpetual has become bolder in its color. This game is available in 31, 36, and 41 mm sizes, enriching players’ choices greatly.
Another piece that closely follows the trend is the day-date “puzzle face.” This is another young and dynamic design of the Datejust/Weekday-Date after the 2021 Datejust “Palm Leaf.” There are three watches in this work, namely 18K white gold (m128239), 18K yellow gold (m128238), and 18K rose gold (m128235). They all use 36 mm diameter. The dial is a combination of filled enamel and gem inlay technology. The dial is divided into multiple areas of different colors. The edges of each puzzle piece are outlined with 18K gold, which is rich in layers. The hour markers are also composed of various colored gemstones, which are very luxurious.
The series feature, the day-of-week calendar window, also incorporates exciting creativity. It can be seen that the messages in the fan-shaped week window have been replaced with Happy, Eternity, Gratitude, Peace, Love, and Hope. They all represent beautiful meanings no matter what day of the week they correspond to. In the calendar window, numbers have also been replaced by various popular emoticons.
Finally, let’s look at a few new products that are “regular upgrades.” Although their improvement is less evident than the works mentioned above, players are also happy to see steady progress and extend the life cycle of classic designs through improved performance. For example, the Skywalker model has added new colors and uses the Cal.9002 movement with the Chronergy escapement system.
In addition to the “puzzle face” mentioned above, the Day-Date 36 has three new models with dials made of colored decorative gemstones and Roman numeral hour markers set with diamonds: 128345RBR, 128348RBR, and 128349RBR.
The previously controversial Explorer type finally received a 40mm version this year, and the movement was accordingly upgraded to Cal.3230. It should be noted that the new 40mm model is not related to the previous 36mm version. Both sizes are currently on sale. The brand meets the preferences of different players through the “dual watch diameter” strategy: one caters to trends, and the other sticks to classics.
GMT-Master II has launched two new models, gold steel and 18K gold, with gray and black two-color Cerachrom ceramic word rings and commemorative straps (five-bead chain). This is the return of the inter-gold model of the series many years after the previous model Ref. 116710LN (“Little Green Needle”) was discontinued. With the blessing of the latest generation Cal.3285 movement, the performance has been significantly improved.
Summary: In 2023, Rolex will have both the Daytona and Perpetual 1908 models that breakthrough tradition and use see-through backs for the first time, and the Explorer 40 Horizontal model that adheres to the classics and “regular upgrades.” At the same time, the Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” face and the Day-Date “Puzzle” face have changed players’ stereotypes about the series to a certain extent with their trendy, fashionable, and dynamic appearance. Which is the most qualified to be Rolex’s masterpiece of the year?
Engine: Rolex Calibre 7750/Mingzhu Engine
Dial Color: Ice Blue Dial
Case Color: Silver-tone
Band Width: 20mm